I like work, really I do. I’ve been lucky enough always to have interesting jobs and I don’t want to stop working. But you do need a change sometimes which is why I find myself writing this in a hotel in Raasay. If the spelling is a bit erratic it is because I am using the eeePC. A lovely device but the keyboard is a bit small for serious typing.
We drove up on Monday for an overnight at The Village Inn in Arrochar. A good drive, arriving early in time for a quick walk up to the base of the Cobbler – no time to go for the summit. Well, let’s be honest. It was a rather slow walk as I realised just how out of condition I was.
Then on to Dornie. We had left booking very late and found difficulty getting somewhere in central Skye so we went for Dornie with the idea of using the bridge to get into Skye. On the way there we passed through Glen Shiel and thought we would explore at least part of the Five Sisters of Kintail. No time for all of them and we had not made any arrangements to get back to the car. So, we thought, let’s go up one or two, then back to the car. A mistake. The 500m ascent up to the Bealach an Lapain is a killer, especially in my condition, and we only managed the first Sister, Sgurr nan Spainteach which I think means peak of the Spaniard. After the interesting scramble off that we dropped back into Glen Shiel for a massive descent over horribly broken ground with me feeling totally pathetic. We regained the road at the Glen Shiel battle site and H abandoned me there while she waled back to get the car. Apparently there were Spanish soldiers (presumably mercenaries?) at the battle – the origin of the name of the peak?
The peak is over 3000 feet and H thought we had bagged a Munro. But it doesn’t qualify. Probably too close to the next sister, which is a Munro. H has gone off the idea of Munro bagging.
So we arrived, late and tired, at the B&B in Dornie. A lovely place, and the first B&B I have stayed at which offered a room service meal if you were too late to go to the (very nice) local pub.
Wednesday was a day for a low level walk to try to get me back into condition and we did the Fairy Pools circuit in Coire na Creiche in Glen Brittle. Don’t be fooled by a rather naff name. The Pools are fantastic: waterfalls and the bluest pools you have ever seen. Why so blue? The water comes straight off the Cuillin with no peat in it, and the rocks it runs over may have something to do with it.
The next day saw us back in Glen Brittle, to the campsite at the bottom, along the single track road and despairing at the inability of some drivers to cope with the etiquette of using passing places. Then up to Coire Lagan. A most magical place, with amazing views – Cuillin peaks behind and sea and islands in front.
We were sorry to leave Dornie. We had seen it as a substitute for staying on Skye but it was very fine in itself. The evenings are wonderful, as the setting sun catches the hills with a red-gold glow.
Friday and the ferry to Raasay, where we are staying in the Borodale House Hotel (formerly the Isle of Raasay Hotel but not much scope for confusion as it is the only hotel on the island). We wanted to explore the North end of the island so we drove to Brochel Castle and walked from there. That included a mile and a half of tarred road but a raher special road – Calum’s Road. There was previously a narrow pathway from there to Arnish and on to the end of the island. Calum Macleod, who lived at Arnish, petitioned the council for a road in an attempt to stop the residents moving away. When they refused he built it himself, single-handed, over 10 years. Or at least he graded it and the council then tarred it. Roger Hutchinson has written a book called ‘Calum’s Road’ which I must read.
After Arnish, the track to the North end is beautiful, rugged, remote and boggy in places. You keep on passing the remains of clearance habitations. I must read more about crofting and the clearances. At the North end we sat and looked out to Rona.
We also watched a young Guillemot separated from its parents and squeaking loudly. After a bit a parent, with a much deeper croak, swam over and found the youngster. A nice moment.
The walk back was long and hot, particularly along the road but at least we could get some idea of the task that Calum had set himself. And the meal at the hotel last night was excellent.
So, we have had five days of fine weather with the threat of rain today. And I am feeling a lot better. I do things like this partly because I like the open air and the feeling of freedom but really, at my age, the main motivation is “if you don’ use it you’ll lose it”.
Still another week to go. I’ll write more if I can find a 3G signal or another hotel, like this, with broadband.
